Yarbrough first foraged for mushrooms she was a little girl, tagging along with her Lithuanian great-grandmother. You hear about a tropical storm coming and you say, ‘Oh yes, please.’ If you’re a sailor, not so much.” Derek Davis/Staff photographer “People who forage want more rain, and they want it at the right time. Foraging has changed her attitude toward the weather. Unless it’s a bad year for mushrooms – and this year was an exceptionally good one – she doesn’t even bother to gather those the field guides classify as “good.” Surrounded by what they rank as “choice” mushrooms, why bother? I don’t feel that I need to know every mushroom in the woods,” she said. Today, she can identify some 50 mushrooms, edible and non, though she only harvests and eats a fraction of those, among them black trumpets, hedgehogs, maitake, oyster mushrooms, porcinis, yellow-footed chanterelles and – this year’s grand discovery – “the elusive matsutake.” Mushroom identification requires similar care. You are working with texts of the greatest philosophers in the world,” she said. Early on, she hired David Spahr, author of “Edible and Medicinal Mushrooms of New England and Eastern Canada: A Photographic Guidebook to Finding and Using Key Species,” to walk her land with her.Īn academic whose field is political philosophy, Yarbrough is a slow and careful reader. (“It’s the only thing I do on Facebook,” she said.) She went on mushroom forays, learning from “really kind, helpful people who were generous with their knowledge.” She mastered spore prints studied Latin names taught herself gills, pores and smells. She joined the Maine Mycological Association and a Maine mushroom club on Facebook. She set herself a goal of learning one edible mushroom a year, a timeline that has accelerated as her expertise has developed. “I never really liked the woods,” Yarbrough said, “and it wasn’t until I discovered this mushroom thing …” Up until then, her late husband, Richard Morgan, who taught constitutional law at Bowdoin, was the outdoorsman in the family, an avid fly fisherman, bird hunter and a Registered Maine Guide. I just thought, I want to know what else is out here.” “Chanterelles were the only game in town for me. She’d been harvesting those from the woods around her home ever since a Bowdoin colleague told her they grew there and taught her to spot them.
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She already knew how to identify chanterelles, a golden mushroom much sought after by cooks. Jean Yarbrough harvests near her home in Harpswell.
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